LOUISVILLE IS FOR (FOOD) LOVERS.
Louisville is located just on the border of Kentucky and Indiana––unfortunately often referred to as Kentuckiana––in arguably one of the most fertile areas in all the country. Kentucky was long considered sacred land by native americans for how rich and verdant the landscape was, and when the distillers eventually settled the area in the 1700's they found the soil perfect for grain growing and the limestone water highly conducive to whiskey making. Now, several centuries later, no city quite embraces its locality and heritage quite like Louisville.Where the wine lists occasionally lack, the whiskey and beer lists more than make up for it. Also no one seems to be slacking on the food. Local food is becoming a near given amongst the menus, and in places like Harvest Restaurant, the walls are even graced by large portraits of the farmers. With the increasing number of talented bread makers, beer makers, cooks, bartenders and farmers in this city, Louisville has become a contender among the Portlands, Seattles, and Austins of the country. Needless to say, Hannah and I spent 24 hours there this week worthy enough to warrant a post.
We checked in at the Brown Hotel, one of the many historic hotels in Louisville's blossoming downtown, and met up with our photographer, Tim. For lunch we took a break from the pictures to stop in at Hillbilly Tea on 1st street. Conservatively and creatively designed in local art and primitives––it was not only comfortable but inviting. Hannah got a tea platter, a variety of bites inspired by high tea in England with a southern twist and I went with a wild mushroom sandwich. Tim ordered the pulled pork and we all slipped silently into reverence as we ate then came-to a few minutes later in deep praise of the food––all very fresh and thoughtfully prepared. Later on Tuesday evening, we stopped into the Beer Store on Market Street for a celebratory beverage. Everyone everywhere should be jealous that this store wasn't their idea. On top of having one of the greatest beer selections I've ever had the privilege of witnessing, you can drink a beer as you peruse, or sit out back and enjoy it at a table the other beer nerds. You will spend money there but you wont regret it. With fear of sounding too much like a travel magazine, if you fancy a more bar-like ambiance one can head over to their bar, Holy Grale, on Bardstown. They were recently voted among the best sliders in the U.S. by foodandwine.com. The Eiderdown restaurant and its sister bar, Nachbar, are similarly some of the other great beer experiences in the city. Chef Brian Morgan is doing amazing things with local food at The Eiderdown to match its geeky yet wonderful assortment of draft beers.
When I lived in Louisville over 8 years ago, I don't know if I even was aware that Market Street existed, but its now a destination. Galleries, nearby hotels, restaurants––Market Street is suddenly another neighborhood to rival the equally attractive Highlands, Germantown, Frankfort Avenue, and Old Louisville parts of the city. For dinner, we wanted to try somewhere special neither of us had been before so we made reservations at Market Street's recent addition, Harvest Restaurant. This is a place whose entire existence revolves around the farmer as a self-proclaimed but aptly titled "Farmer to Fork" restaurant. I had the smoked goat cheese lasagnette, and Hannah ordered the pretzel bread gnocchi and neither of us wanted to share. There was soul in the food, that ineffable quality that elevates a meal beyond a simple compilation of flavors. Great service, ambiance, food and cocktails––everything about the meal was special. We cannot recommend it enough.
The next morning, after coffee at Sunergos, we headed over to brunch at Blue Dog Bakery on Frankfort avenue for one last memorable dining experience before we departed. I've eaten here a number of times and it neither lets me down, nor fails to inspire another visit. The whole city is that way. This is a respectable list of recommendations for any city, but it barely scratches the surface of Louisville's prolific and booming artisinal food and beverage scene. I haven't even mentioned Proof on Main, the restaurant equivalent of a well-fitting suit. Or Vietnam Kitchen. Or Heine Brother's Coffee. Or any of the other things that make Louisville special, or in their words, keep Louisville weird. Lastly, these types of places also make Louisville a great honeymoon destination, you know, if you might ever need one.- Jesse.
