THE SIX KEY TENETS TO NO-TILL MARKET GARDENING.

VIDEO HERE.

When Rough Draft Farmstead first started out, we wanted it to be an entirely “no-till” farm which we theretofore defined rather simply as mulching the garden with hay or straw and not tilling it. Period. So several years ago, that is what we attempted to do. We bought or traded for hay from a neighbor—usually impossibly giant, rotten round bales—and spread it over our gardens laboriously. Every fall it was battle to get it spread then in the Spring we would transplant or sow crops into it. This of course worked fine... to an extent.The soil did become more pliable and healthier below the mulch, but it also resulted in a lot of added weed seed (ergo a lot of added hand-weeding); in soil that was too cool for early tomatoes; in a lot of difficulty direct seeding; and in whole days or even weeks spent simply adding mulch. It was, in short, not sustainable on a market scale. Now, however, we have come to see the folly in our thinking. The mulch was fine, and certainly a bonafide no-till practice. Where we failed was in our own myopathy—that we saw no-till as a single thing (mulch) and not a nuanced set of principles that could be easily be adapted to any situation and many materials. So in today’s video I have laid out these new set of principles we are following to get our current minimal tillage farm turned entirely into a no-tillage farm. Oh and while you’re watching, don’t forget to subscribe to our Youtube, especially if you’re interested in no-till gardening but even if not! I mean, who doesn’t love watching nerdy farm videos? Lots of content to come all year long (because fortuitously, growing year-round has an important place in no-till farming), so stay tuned. -Jesse

SOIL BLOCK BREAKDOWN.

 Had we never interned at Bugtussle Farm, I don't know that we would have ever tried soil blocks. Beyond Eliot Coleman and a few others, most farmers decry this seed propagation method as too slow, too much soil used, too cumbersome.We, however, seven years in, see it differently. And I thought I'd just do a little breakdown of what we've found using soil blocks––per an (always appreciated) request in our comments section––and why we still do. But first, some dispelling.SPEEDSlow is the word people often associate with soil block making. And though we've admittedly never used any other method on anywhere near the scale we use soil blocks, one soil block tray of 50 or 84 blocks takes me about 90 seconds (minus seeding which depends on seed size, color and shape). Give or take.  4" blocks, maybe take less. And that's with regular hand held block makers ––more efficient ones exist or are coming out. Is that slow? Hard to imagine cell trays going a whole lot faster (though let me know if I'm wrong!). Of course, when you first start out, it may be slower. No, it definitely will be. You will try and make every block perfectly crisp. You will try and clean the block makers of dirt before releasing the blocks. If you can push beyond that, however, get a block looking at least three quarters good––AKA good enough for a seed to approve of––that's all you need.CRUMBLYIf you have trouble with crumbly blocks, two things may have occurred. First, the soil may not have been properly prepared or moistened. I prefer too wet of a soil over too dry (explained below) for this reason. Second, you may have tried to transplant the block before the seedling took root––generally around first true leaves. Once roots are established in the block, they will more or less hold it together. You may lose soil here or there in transplanting, but it's no big deal. Throw it in the garden, or stir into unused mix.TOO MUCH SOILIndeed, you will use a lot of soil with soil blocks. But think of soil block trays as portable gardens. When these gardens exit your greenhouse and go into your field, not only are you transplanting a crop, but all of that soil, that garden, as well. By that logic, we have added roughly 1 1/2 tons of soil mix to our 3/4 acre garden so far this year from soil blocks. That's a lot of bonus organic matter!HOW TO USE:Start with a well-prepared soil mix. This can be purchased from a compost company like Vermont Compost or Johnny's or simply made at home. For us, our recipe is: one, 3-cubic yard bag of peat moss (or like substance), 20 gallons sifted sand, 10 gallons sifted compost plus 10 gallons sifted soil or old compost. We then add 4 cups blood meal for nitrogen, 4 cups lime, 2 cups rock phosphate (or other organic phosphorous source), 2 cups green sand (or similar potassium) and occasionally crushed egg shells for calcium when potting up tomatoes and peppers. (This is essentially Eliot Coleman's recipe). All ingredients should be mixed well, of course, and it seems to perform better when left to "marry" for a few months, so make in fall or winter when possible. (Four of these mixes will usually get us through the spring.) Next we wet the soil to a consistency where it is not quite puddling or muddy, but is definitely wet. It should drip but not run––you'll figure that out with practice. We then pack it into the maker and form our blocks. Don't worry about perfect blocks. Just make sure they hold together. To help with that, depress the soil block maker against the tray to compact the block a little before releasing the blocks. Then we seed, cover in accordance with the seed size (larger seeds like cucurbits generally like to be fully covered, whereas smaller seeds like lettuce can just be lightly covered––we simply pinch soil from the side of the blocks, no extra needed) and place in shade or greenhouse.GENERAL TIPS:Use a wheel barrow or similarly sturdy container so you can utilize the edges for pressing the soil in. Soft containers will bend and flex, eventually breaking. Make sure it's at a good height for you––don't break your back bending over. Dip your soil block maker in water after every blocking or two to rinse. This will help keep the blocks sliding out smoothly. If the mix gets too wet, add more dry mix and stop dipping until back to good consistency. Do not leave block makers out. They will rust and become more ornery over time. Always rinse and place somewhere dry and warm for longevity.WHERE TO PURCHASE:We have only used the soil block makers from Johnny's, though we are fully satisfied. Others exist, but I cannot comment on their efficacy. We have also made our own four inch makers out of old plastic pots––good for a small scale garden, but won't last long. Additionally, our block makers are all the small-handled versions, though we hope to step up to the long-handled makers one day to save on back strain. Johnny's is also, I believe, working on a maker that will produce an entire tray at once, which could drastically improve the speed.If you have any questions, additions, or comments, leave them below! We also made THIS video last month of potting up peppers for reference.-Jesse. 

FRIENDS AND TOMATOES.

We were so lucky to have a dear friend of Jesse's stay with us last week, and while he was here, he helped us finish stringing up our tomatoes in our garden by the cabin. The garden is looking lovely, and the tomato plants are doing well. We have been dreaming about tomato sandwiches for weeks now....thanks for the help Aaron!

IN THE GARDEN.

This past week, we:Started the sweet potato slip bed. We save the best shaped sweet potatoes all winter, bury them under sand and then cover it with wire mesh and a plastic tarp. Once the bed heats up and the potatoes start to sprout we will remove the plastic. These little sprouts are what we plant to get sweet potatoes! We potted up tomatoes into 4 - inch soil blocks (since they are getting too big for the smaller blocks, but it is still too cold to plant them). Jesse and I put up plant variety markers in our own garden. We cut up our seed potatoes and planted nearly a quarter acre. Yukon Gold, Kennebec, and Red Lasoda. And tonight it is supposed to FROST! Oh, spring.- Hannah.